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Five tips for a bespoke groom’s suit.

Five tips for a bespoke bridal suit

Starting with an accessory to imagine your costume

It is better to imagine the complete silhouette rather than just the costume. The accessory sets the tone and the spirit of the outfit. From experience, the right starting point is to think about what the groom will wear around his neck: tie, lavaliere or bow tie… To each theme there is an accessory: romantic with a lavaliere, simple and chic a slim, vintage and country tie with a fancy bow tie. This gives ideas for the colour of the suit itself. Pink and parma dominate the medium greys. With anthracites, reds energize the silhouette. On the navy, violets and fuchsia pinks take over.

Freeing yourself from morphological constraints

“In ready-to-wear, these constraints exist, but in made-to-measure, they no longer exist. We know how to cut with precision all the models and shapes proposed according to the morphology of each one. Volumes, shoulder and jacket lengths as well as the position of the waist point are defined to within five millimetres. The collar or lapel styles depend on the spirit of the outfit. Tailoring frees the wearer from the constraints of morphology”.

Choose the fabric of your suit according to the wedding season and the theme.

“Super 120’s woollen fabrics and especially wool and mohair blends, allow you to combine freshness, crease-resistance and impeccable fall. For a more relaxed spirit, opt for cotton gabardines. For country weddings, linen is the obvious choice, but then you have to accept its crumpled aspect”.

Exposing your clothing habits to the tailor

“in a bespoke suit, there are the measurements of your body, but also, the way you want to feel the suit on you. We take both aspects into account by asking very simple and precise questions. For the model, the three-piece suit is the groom’s must have today. Plain with a fine tie, it expresses a chic yet restrained elegance. With a bow tie and cut in a Prince of Wales patterned fabric, it surfs the vintage trend. I recommend it as a total look with trousers, jacket and waistcoat made from the same fabric. The silk cardigan is the best choice for a more romantic outfit, to be worn with a lavaliere. For an offbeat spirit, don’t hesitate to add pink, purple or orange to the trousers, keeping the jacket and waistcoat in the same fabric”.

Attention to detail

“The details make all the difference. Numerous customisations are possible. The very strong coloured linings of recent years give way to more refined details. We offer the possibility of using the bow tie fabric in Liberty or gingham for example on the inside of the jacket. It is used to make a border edging around the lining. A colour can also be used on the last sleeve buttonhole. Of course, all our sleeve buttonholes can be opened, and if you want to be a little snobbish, you can leave this last buttonhole open. This is an international code to signify that your suit has been made to measure. Finally, the pouch is indispensable. It can be simply ivory to match the shirt or more fancy according to the bow tie pattern.”

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